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How to install and Use a Pop-Up Sprinkler Body

How to install and use pop-up sprinkler Body

Sprinkler bodies, also known as spray heads or pop-up sprinklers, should be installed sub-surface as part of an underground irrigation system. Their ability to function at low pressures and deliver a constant stream of water over a small area makes them the ideal solution for irrigating domestic gardens. The option of an interchangeable nozzle allows you to customise spray patterns and throw radius to build an irrigation system tailored to your garden layout.

Pop-up Sprinkler Irrigation

How to Choose a Pop-up Sprinkler

With many different spray bodies on the market, it can be difficult to choose which type would most suit your watering requirements. Spray bodies are available in heights from 2 inches up to 12-inch risers. The height of the riser you choose depends on the type of lawn/plants you are irrigating. Closely mown grass, for example, requires riser heights around 2–6 inches and taller shrubs require a riser height of 6 inches plus. Make sure the height of the spray nozzle has enough clearance above the canopy of your plants when they are in full bloom. 

Spray Bodies Vs. Bubblers: A Spray Body with Nozzle delivers water across a much larger area in comparison to a Bubbler however, a Bubbler is more appropriate for use when watering specific shrubs or trees as they offer closer to root zone watering.

Top Tip: Install spray bodies and bubblers in separate zones as both deliver entirely different functions.

Choosing a Sprinkler Nozzle

Spray bodies allow you to mix and match interchangeable nozzles for an inexpensive way to create a flexible underground sprinkler system. They are installed simply by pulling up the riser via the flush cap, unthreading the flush cap whilst still holding the riser, then placing the filter into the top of the riser and threading on the nozzle.

sprinklernozzle

Fixed Sprinkler Nozzle: Deliver a precise spray pattern usually in a 90°, 180° or 360° fan shape. Ideal for watering corners, around the perimeter or in the centre of a set of sprinklers.

sprinklernozzle2

Variable Arc Nozzle: Allow fully customisable adjustment between 90° to 360° usually by a simple twist by hand of the top of a nozzle. Simply turn the nozzle so it delivers the required watering pattern or does not overthrow onto patios or pathways.

sprinklernozzle2

Rotary Sprinkler Nozzles: Produce a similar effect to a rotor sprinkler but can be inserted into less expensive sprinkler bodies. A rotary nozzle produces multiple streams of water that rotate around the spray head allowing time for water to absorb into the ground minimising water runoff and producing less mist. This means water is not lost in the air but is delivered exactly where required – the roots.

Performance: Nozzles are often colour coded depending on the radius they can throw water to. As the radius increases so does the flow rate the sprinkler will require to function optimally. This information is reported in nozzle performance data and should be taken into account when calculating how many sprinklers to have per irrigation zone.

Top Tip: It is important not to mix and match different nozzle types and nozzle performances on the same irrigation zone. Choose a nozzle that works well for each area of your garden and place those in a circuit from the same valve.

Sprinkler Spray Body Glossary

Flush Cap: Often included with most spray bodies. It allows for easy retrieval of the riser and prevents debris from entering the spray body during installation as the cap can remain in situ before the nozzles are installed allowing flushing of the finished system. Retain the flush cap after first use as it can also be reinstalled when carrying out system maintenance or winterisation.

Sprinkler Alignment: Often the internal riser built into the spray body may feature a clutch mechanism that allows for quick alignment of the spray pattern as the riser can be rotated to the required direction of water flow.

Positive Riser Retraction: Often when dirt builds up within the internal mechanisms of the sprinkler, the riser does not return inside the sprinkler canister. A sprinkler with positive riser retraction features a robust spring that pulls the riser back inside the sprinkler once the water is shut off.

Co-Moulded Wiper Seal: Sprinklers with this built-in feature ensure leak-free operation as this internal seal reduces dirt and grass falling inside the sprinkler. This minimises clogging of the internal mechanisms promoting successful rising and retraction.

Narrow Profile Sprinkler: This refers to the width and general size of the sprinkler body itself. Often, these smaller bodies are compatible with most nozzles from some leading brands and have the additional benefit of minimising the size of the underground trench required for correct installation.

Nozzle Guard: Usually installed instead of the screw cap and sits slightly above the nozzle when the riser is retracted. This guard protects against any unwanted arc setting changes and minimises damage to the nozzle caused by footfall or lawnmowers.

Flow Stop: Sprinkler bodies complete with this mechanism automatically stop water flow from a single spray head if it becomes damaged, thus minimising water wastage and pooling around sprinkler sites.

Check Valve: Sprinklers often have a built-in check valve activated when the water supplying the system is switched off. This water-saving function holds water within the system preventing it from leaking out and pooling around sprinkler heads located at the lowest point of the system.

Side Inlet: Sprinklers with a side inlet often have the option of a bottom inlet too. One inlet can be plugged in whilst the other is in use. Side inlets allow the user to have a taller sprinkler riser yet reduce labour during installation as pipe can be installed closer to the surface.

Pressure Regulation: Spray bodies can have pressure regulation built-in and are often regulated to between 30 and 40 PSI. The internal regulators ensure water pressure and distribution is consistent throughout the system regardless of location or elevation. This useful built-in mechanism makes pressure-regulated sprays ideal for installation on sloped layouts.

Matched Precipitation: A feature built into a nozzle that divides water output for even distribution of water with minimal dry spots.

Wind Resistant Spray: Some nozzles can produce a spray with large water droplets. This minimises wind drift and maintains accurate spray patterns. 

Low Flow Application: A water-saving function some sprinkler nozzles have built-in. This application distributes water more slowly from the nozzle and at a more consistent rate. Use nozzles with low flow to minimise water runoff and allow water to seep into the root zone.

Nozzle Retention Screw: Some nozzles feature an adjustable screw that can reduce output radius so water does not overthrow onto patios or pathways.

Nozzle Filter: Arrives with most nozzles and is vital for maintaining long-lasting performance. Filters stop sediment and particles from entering the nozzle minimising the risk of the outlets becoming clogged.

Calculating Flow Rate from the Water Source

Water Pressure

Most domestic pop-up sprinkler systems operate at bar pressures from 1.3 to 4.8 bar depending on the type of pop-up sprinkler and nozzles used in the system. Use the below method to calculate water pressure from your tap or faucet. Alternatively, your local water board can supply this information.

 

Too Much Pressure: Pressure higher than the pop-up sprinkler is designed to function means the water jet outputs as a mist and drifts away with the wind rather than being applied to your plants. A correctly functioning nozzle should output large water droplets that are more resistant to wind drift. Maintaining the correct bar pressure is easily managed by installing a Pressure Reducer within the mainline of the pipe before a sprinkler is installed.

Too Little Pressure: You might measure your pressure and realise you have enough pressure to run a sprinkler system from your outside domestic tap however, as you add more pop-up sprinklers and extend the run length of the pipe, this reduces the bar pressure within the system. As the pressure deteriorates through the expansion of the system, the internal mechanism of the pop-up does not have enough force to lift the riser out of the ground. It is, therefore essential to use sprinklers that do not require higher pressure than your supply.

Irrigation Filters: Always install a filter upstream from the sprinklers to minimise the risk of clogging or damage caused by debris build-up.

Zoning a Sprinkler System

Domestic water pressure outputs around 9 litres of water per minute and 540 litres per hour. If your sprinkler’s flow range is around 180 litres per hour, your sprinkler system will be able to accommodate 3 sprinklers at an optimal level (divide 540 by 180). This number appears quite low but additional sprinklers can be added if you divide your system into multiple Irrigation Zones. Use an Irrigation Controller to control each zone individually for a fully automated system.

Use the below calculation to determine the water flow rate from your tap or chosen water source.

 

To calculate how many zones are required for your system, calculate how many sprinklers are required and the total of litres per minute all the sprinklers will use combined and divide this by the amount your tap/faucet outputs.

Friction Loss: As water travels through a pipe, the flow is slowed due to the friction generated. Factor this into your calculations by taking 20% off the flow rate from your tap.

Laying Pipe for an Underground Sprinkler Irrigation System

Sprinkler irrigation systems are high volume systems designed to be installed underground discreetly disguised below the surface making it an almost invisible way to water your lawn or garden beds. This watering solution avoids unsightly pipe networks being on show and lets your beautiful plants take centre stage.

1. Planning the System

Begin by sketching a plan of your garden and draw where you intend to place your sprinklers, pipe network and connections. Make a list of all the items you will need to build your irrigation system.

Top Tip: The best way to plan your system is to mark your garden out using markers such as pots or rocks to indicate sprinklers or connectors and string to indicate pipe. Don’t forget to measure the distance your sprinkler will throw and allow for plenty of spray pattern overlap. (The next section of this guide advises how to achieve head to head spray pattern overlap.) Sprinklers should also be as evenly spaced apart as possible to ensure uniform water distribution.

2. Preparing the Ground

Calculating Water Flow Rate

Once you have chosen where to place your pipe network and sprinklers, dig a trench about 6-12 inches wide and deep. Be sure to carefully lift the turf keeping it as intact as possible.

Top Tip: Use waterproof sheets to stack the ground retrieved from the trench to avoid damage to the rest of the lawn.

3. Installing the Pipe Network

MDPE or HDPE pipe is used to install most sprinkler systems and LDPE pipe is ideal for small domestic systems. To maintain pipe integrity and build a long-lasting system, you will need to uncoil it correctly. With a friend, uncoil the pipe making sure it does not kink and weigh it down either end with a brick for one hour preferably on a sunny day. This process lets the pipe settle making it easier to work with.

LDPE Pipe: Use Barbed/Nut Lock Connectors to direct pipe around corners and divert different ways. Threaded Connectors can be used where you would like to install your sprinkler.

ldpe pipe

Top Tip: Use Ratchet Clamps to secure pipe and prevent pipe blow-off whilst the system is in use.

MDPE/HDPE: Use Compression fittings that fit the external diameter of your pipe to direct pipe around your garden. Threaded Compression Fittings should be installed where you would like to place your sprinklers. Sprinklers often feature a ½” or ¾” inlet that can be attached to threaded connectors.

Don’t forget to install an End Piece at any open end of the system to maintain pressure for sprinklers to function optimally. 

Very importantly – Ensure connections are watertight and securely fitted! Any loose connection can work its way free from the pipe causing an underground leak. Check the pipework is all intact and the system is watertight.

Connect the pipe network to the water source and run water through before installing your sprinklers. This process flushes out any dirt or debris sitting within the pipe that may have got in there during installation and will clog the internal mechanisms. Allow water through the system for 2-5 minutes ensuring enough time to sufficiently flush it through.

How to Install a Pop-Up Sprinkler in an Irrigation System

Installing a Pop-Up Sprinkler

Sprinkler bodies can be installed directly onto the threaded outlet of a Compression Fitting, Nut Lock or Barbed Connector. Alternatively, for more flexibility when placing your sprinklers, connect Swing Pipe to the threaded outlet of your connector. This installation method using flexible pipe can reduce the impact of lawnmowers and footfall by cushioning the weight and acting as a shock absorber. Top Tip: Use PTFE Tape around male threads for a watertight connection.

Swing pipe is easily installed to a compression fitting using a nut lock connector. Simply remove the tapper from a nut lock fitting and push it into the centre channel of a ¾” male threaded compression fitting outlet.

ldpe pipe

Install the nut, tapered edge first, over swing pipe and push the swing pipe onto the barbed outlet of the tapper. Tighten the nut for a watertight connection between MDPE/HDPE and flexible pipe.

Rotor Installed

Alternatively, install a sprinkler from a Compression Fitting using barbed connectors. Install a Male Threaded Elbow to the female outlet of a Female Threaded Compression Tee followed by a length of Swing Pipe and another male threaded barbed elbow connected to the sprinkler.

Few connectors can allocate for the installation of a 90° spray pattern. This method provides a solution for sprinklers to be directed to a corner from a length of flexible pipe. 

Drain Valves: Designed to be installed at the lowest point of the system at the bottom of a run of sloped pipe. Drain valves function primarily to prevent the effect of thawing and freezing that causes damage to pipework and sprinklers by flushing the system when not in use. Our HydroSure Drain Valve features a barbed inlet so can be installed using LDPE pipe or adapted to MDPE/HDPE systems. Top Tip: Install the Drain Valve inside a Valve Box on top of a layer of gravel. These conditions aid water drainage and allow for easy accessibility during system maintenance.

Important: Check the system is watertight walking around checking each sprinkler and connection. Once checks have been made, the soil can be backfilled and a new lawn can be laid.

Basic Sprinkler Installation

The below diagram illustrates how to install a spray body up to 6 inches in height underground.

This installation can be achieved using MDPE or HDPE as the lateral pipe. Aim to install the sprinkler so the nozzle is at ground level to minimise damage.

Side Inlet Pop Up Installation

When installing spray bodies with taller risers, often the spray body will have a Side Inlet to allow for easier installation. The below image shows the two ways a spray body with a side inlet can be installed. Often a spray body will arrive complete with a plug so when the sprinkler is installed via one outlet, the other will not leak, thus maintaining the water pressure within the system.

Creating Sprinkler Overlap for Healthy Plants

Head to Head Watering

Head-to-head watering is a vitally important installation technique used to eliminate the risk of dry spots and having to manually water areas your sprinklers miss because of poor sprinkler placement. Sprinklers should be spaced evenly so the sprays overlap. Creating a 100% overlap of sprinkler output means the beam from one sprinkler meets the location of where another is in situ. Calculate the throw distance from each sprinkler and measure accordingly to achieve head-to-head watering. It is important to note your sprinkler may not be capable of outputting the maximum throw distance/radius on the manufacturer’s performance chart due to wind drift and pressure loss within the pipe. Take this into account and correctly measure the radius the sprinkler in your situation can throw to and create a spray overlap that ensures even distribution of water droplets eliminating any risk of brown patches or un-watered plants. A good design with plenty of overlap, such as between 8-10 sprinklers, is more cost-effective than a bad design with fewer sprinklers. 

Check for Even Water Distribution

Once you have adjusted sprinklers to the required spray pattern and the risers are aligned so all nozzles are pointing in the right direction, it is important to check water is being put down exactly where it is needed. Place cups around your lawn or garden in the direction of sprinkler output and run your system for 10-15 minutes. After this time, check to see how much water is in each cup ensuring there is an even amount in each. This technique minimises dry spots and over-watering. 

Considering Sprinkler Flow Rate and Average Transpiration To Calculate Run Time

#The below formula will help you work out how long you need to run an underground sprinkler irrigation system. Some irrigation controllers may ask for the below information to automatically modify irrigation to ensure plants receive just enough water to thrive whilst minimising water wastage.

Average Transpiration: Must be compensated for when calculating how often and for how long to water your plants. It refers to the amount of water plants release from their leaves. This water loss needs to be replaced so plants can continue to grow and draw water into the roots. The average rate of transpiration in the UK is 4.5mm a day. If you are running your system for 20 minutes three times a week and aiming to put down an inch of water each time, factor this into your system run time. Please Note: Transpiration from plants will increase during warmer weather, up to around 10mm, so system run time will need to also increase.

Time: It is highly unlikely that you will need to run a sprinkler system for an hour but, sprinkler output is usually calculated in litres per hour so we must multiply the average transpiration in millimetres by 60.

Output from Sprinkler: This is usually calculated in millimetres per hour (mm/h) and can be found in the user manual of your sprinkler. Please note: Precipitation rate is different to flow range.

The answer you get from using this calculation will give you time in minutes to run your irrigation system.

Top Tip: Transpiration from plants will increase in windy conditions. The formula does not account for the current of air so you will need to adjust your system accordingly.

Sprinkler Run Times Vs. Soil Type

The average time to run a sprinkler system is for 30 minutes three times a week. During periods of extreme heat, the run times may need to be increased due to evaporation and heat stress.

Top Tip: Cover the soil around beds and borders in a layer of mulch to prevent evaporation and water early in the morning or late evening to allow water to remain within the root zone for longer.   

Often the type of soil you have in your garden can determine how long to run your sprinkler system. Soil is made from a percentage of clay, sand and silt particles and different soil types have different ratios of each. This impacts the amount of water the soil can hold and keep readily available for the plant’s roots.

Sandy Soils: Allow water to seep into the soil quickly minimising runoff meaning water can be put down quickly and it still absorbs into the ground.

Clay soils: Retain water readily available for the plant’s roots but, require longer for water to seep into the soil. Clay is prone to surface runoff so water needs to be put down slower.

The below table indicates how soil types determine the water application rate.

Sprinkler System Maintenance

Winterising a Sprinkler System

Draining down a sprinkler system for winter is a vitally important process for protecting delicate irrigation components and minimising damage caused by thawing and freezing if water is left sitting within the pipes.

If a system is not winterised, water within the pipe expands as it freezes and causes the pipe network and sprinklers to crack or become brittle under the pressure. There are three ways to drain down your system before the temperature plummets to below 0°. With all drain down methods, the water supplying the system will need to be switched off.

Manual Drain: If an automatic drain valve is not installed, you will need to manually drain the system by turning on each solenoid valve to allow the water to escape. Lift the riser of each sprinkler head and disassemble it to remove any sitting water. Use an absorbent cloth/sponge to clear any excess.

Automatic Drain: Systems with a Drain Valve installed will automatically drain the system each time the water supply is shut off. During winterisation, unscrew the cap/open the drain valve taking care as this cap is often pressurised. Leave the valve open so all the water drains out and replace the cap after 24 hours. Similar to manual drain processes, each sprinkler will require disassembly to remove any sitting water.

Air blowout: Ideal for larger scale and commercial systems, this process forces air through the system that essentially blows out the water. It is recommended to hire a trained professional when choosing this process.

Repairing a Leak in an Underground Irrigation System

Occasionally, an underground pipe can degrade or become damaged. This can cause a leak in your irrigation system. It is important to fix any leaks to maintain an efficiently working system and to prevent water wastage.

Locate a leak in a system by checking for wet spots or water pooling. This indicates where the pipe may have split or a fitting may have come loose. Another indication of a leak is hearing water leaking/hissing even when the system is turned off.

ldpe pipe

Look out for any zones in your system with low pressure or where the sprinklers are not working at their peak. If you are using a controller or timer with multiple outlets, you can turn zones on or off to help you determine where the leak is. Once you have located the leak, dig out a trench deep and long enough on either side of the pipe.

Male Threaded Tee

Use Pipe Cutters to cut away the damaged area of the pipe trying to save as much pipe as possible. Next, attach a Compression Coupling or Barbed Joiner depending on which pipe you are using, to bridge the gap between the two pipes to mend the leak and create a watertight connection.

Frequently Asked Questions

soakerfaq

Pooling Water Around Sprinkler Site

• Underground systems require frequent flushing to prevent dirt within the pipe network from clogging the nozzle or damaging the seal between the riser and sprinkler body. If your system has had recent repair work/system alterations, debris may prevent the riser from lifting. Flush the system and clean the sprinkler body if necessary to remove any sitting sediment.
• Any damage to the riser caused by a mower or footfall will cause mechanical malfunction and disfigured spray patterns. Check each nozzle and turret top of your sprinklers to ensure they are intact. If your sprinklers are prone to damage, you might be interested in our Nozzle Guard - A cheaper alternative to replacing a unit. 
• The area around a sprinkler site may become boggy/waterlogged indicating a loose connection between the swing joint/fitting or a break in the pipe network. To repair a leak use a Compression Joiner/Micro Joiner depending on the pipe used or install PTFE Tape around any male threaded connection to ensure a watertight seal.
• Water leaking from sprinkler sites even when the system is switched off indicates a problem called low head drainage. A pop-up sprinkler with a Check Valve will prevent water pooling from sprinklers installed at the lowest elevation.

soakerfaq

Sprinklers Not Working the same as when Purchased

• Over time a sprinkler may experience a build-up of sediment and debris that block nozzle outputs or damage the riser retraction mechanisms inside the sprinkler. Flush the system and clean out the inside of the sprinkler as explained in our Sprinkler Maintenance Guide.
• Alternatively, leaking connections or a pipe supplying the sprinkler may have split. The water lost from connections that are not watertight will cause pressure loss and reduce performance.

soakerfaq

Leaking Pipe Connections in Underground Irrigation System

An area that is boggy or waterlogged indicates a leaking connection or a pipe that may have split. Most connection points can be tightened by hand or by adding two wraps of PTFE tape around any male connections or replacing any connectors that overtime, may have snapped.

When fixing your pipe network, depending on the pipe you are using to supply your system will indicate the type of connector you need to repair the damage.

LDPE Supplied Systems: Read our Repairing Damaged LDPE Irrigation Pipe Guide

MDPE/HDPE Supplied Systems: Read our Repairing a Leak Using a Compression Coupling Guide

soakerfaq

My Sprinkler Does Not Cover the Range/Radius Outlined in Specifications

• A variation in flow rate or pressure drop from the water source will also reduce the performance of sprinklers – Check the flow rate from your tap remains high enough during the time of day your system is set to run using our Calculating Flow Rate from the Water Source Guide.
• On windy days, the spray pattern from your sprinklers may alter even when using nozzles with built-in wind resistance. Alternatively, running a system at a bar pressure that is too high, will create misting – consider installing a Pressure Reducer regulated as specified in the sprinkler specifications so minimise spray pattern wind drift.

soakerfaq

How to Lift the Riser of a Pop-up Sprinkler?

To lift the riser of a pop up spray body, most can be uprooted from the main body by hand by simply pinching underneath the nozzle using your thumb and forefinger to lift the riser. Any maintenance or switching of nozzles is carried out in this way. Alternatively, ask a friend to switch the system on manually and catch the riser as it lifts during system operation.